This page will cover a range of topics having to do with the proper care of your dog's coat and skin. Subjects such as bathing, grooming, and skin maladies are discussed below.
Probably the most effective way to minimize shedding and also keep your pooch's coat in top shape is through regular grooming. Not only does this help get rid of loose dead hair/fur that would otherwise end up on the sofa but regular grooming also stimulates and massages the oil glands on the dog's skin. This in turn evenly spreads natural oils over the coat and also prevents dry flaky skin. Grooming also helps get rid of dirt and other debris that can contribute to the 'doggy smell' our pets sometimes have; debris may also sometimes be the cause of skin irritation and constant scratching.
These are some of the basics, and also most common advice given to dog owners that ask about their dog's coat and skin. They are steps that greatly reduce shedding in the house but also it helps to keep your dog's skin healthy and coat shiny.
Using the right tools for the right coats can make a big difference in how effective the grooming sessions will be and also how your dog reacts to being groomed. The following is a basic list of some of the tools that there are and what coats they are designed for:
It is advisable to groom the dog in sections and not all over at once. Start at the tail and work your way up to the head. The pressure on the brush shouldn't be too forceful or too little. An excess of force can result in damage to fur, scratching the skin, or pulling tangles all of which make the grooming experience unpleasant. Applying too little force may result in an inefficient removal of dead fur and possibly missing some tangles and allowing them to fester.
The direction you groom can first be done against the direction the fur grows then the opposite way. It's good to use short deep strokes when going against the growth of hair to avoid damaging it. A tip for efficient fur removal with long coated breeds is to first go over the coat with a slicker brush then with a comb. The slicker gets the top loose fur and the comb removes loose fur deeper down and helps find tangles.
If tangles are found do not just pull on them as this may hurt the dog and can possibly create a negative association with the grooming. We do want to untangle the clump but doing so without hurting the pooch. First grasp the base of the tangle to avoid pulling on the skin, if the tangle isn't too big or too complicated use the comb to untangle little sections at a time. When looked under a microscope, one can see that each individual hair stand has many 'barbs' or 'spurs', these create friction which make some tangles/mats difficult to deal with, it would help to put a dab of conditioner on the tangle as this smoothes out the 'barbs' and allows the hair strand to glide easier. Never put water as this does nothing to minimize constriction and may even allow the tangle to squeeze tighter. If taking the tangle by sections doesn't do seem to be working, you may need a matt remover to shred the tangle into smaller, more manageable, sections. Take note that the matt remover should be a method of last resort and usually is used for bigger mats/tangles. Places to generally look for tangles or mats are behind the ears, neck, fur on the rear end, armpits, and elbows.
During very dry weather a dog’s coat may acquire some static which makes grooming unpleasant for both you and your dog. Spraying a bit of water will get rid of the static temporary; another effective way to eliminate static is with the use of conditioners. Conditioners help the coat keep some moisture which in turn helps get rid of the static. Another suggestion I've recently heard of, is to put a humidifier in your house to avoid the dry environments which cause static in the first place.
Nail Clipping
This is probably one of the most difficult and disliked part of the grooming process by many dog owners. Some opt for taking their dogs to groomers to have this done yet here are some guidelines to do this at home.
First off, it is important to have some corn starch or styptic powder just in case the clipper cuts beyond the quick. The quick is easily visible in dogs with white nails, but it is impossible to see it in black ones. This part of the nail is a sensitive area and when it is cut bleeds copiously; the cornstarch/styptic powder helps to alleviate the bleeding. Note that the longer the nail is allowed to grow, the longer the quick becomes. It is best to cut off the nail little by little every other day so that the quick regresses and gets shorter. Something helpful that one can purchase at a pet store is a specialized nail clipper that will alert you when you are about to cut the quick. Because a clipped quick is painful, it is important to act quickly and let the dog know that things are ok and if he/she doesn’t keep reacting negatively to the clipper, give them a tasty treat to reinforce the good behavior. If your dog continues behaving scared do not coddle him/her as this only reinforces the fear, making them believe that there really is something to be scared of. This brings the next point.
To raise a dog that takes kindly to having his/her nails clipped, it is vital to hold your pup’s feet and get him/her used to being handled a way that a groomer would handle them. Also introduce the grooming tools, nail clipper included, so that they lose their novelty and doesn’t frighten the pooch. Simply bring the tool near the dog and if they investigate it, reward him/her with a tasty treat. Especially with young puppies, teach them that grooming supplies are not chew toys. Do not allow them to bite them, if they do take the tool away and give them something more appropriate to chew on.
Throughout the nail clipping process, make sure to reward your pooch with generous amounts of treats. Slowly they start learning that these sessions mean lots of goodies. A good tip for some dogs that like to move a lot is to have one person hold a treat between two fingers and allow the dog to nibble it, yet not eat it all at once. This keeps the dog busy while the second person gets the nails done; of course the drawback is that you need two people to do it and that one person is going to have a good amount of slobber on their fingers.
There are also different kinds of nail clippers that will, depending on the dog, can make the clipping session difficult or easier. For electronic grinders, to avoid frightening your dog with the noise it makes, introduce it to him/her beforehand and turn it on. Every time you turn it on give them a treat; that is unless they run off. Sometimes with long coated breeds, the fur on the paws may get in the way of the grinder, a tip to avoid this is to pull your dog's leg through a pantyhose and push the nails through the fabric, this keep everything else out of the way of the grinder. It's helpful to keep in mind that nails can be easier to cut after a bath when they are most likely softened by the water, and that some dogs are more willing to have their nails cut while they are still in the bathtub.
Here are three of the most commonly used nail trimmers:
Guillotine: Clamps together two pieces of sharp metal together, stays sharper for longer period, recommended for larger breeds.
Scissor: Used in a similar fashion as a scissor, has two curved sharp edges, recommended for small breeds.
Dremel/Rotary Trimmer: Has a circular grinder that wears down the dog's nail, can be used for any breed.
Even though nail clipping may be the less enjoyable part of grooming it is important that it is never neglected. Nails that are left to grow long start to curl into the paw and become very painful and difficult to cut. Also as discussed in previous paragraphs, longer nails come with longer quicks which take longer to manage. If you are uneasy about cutting your dog's nails, even if it means spending a little extra, get your pooch to a groomer to have the nails cut down. Another easy solution is to simply go out on more walks; the hard ground tends to slowly wear dog a dog's nails.
Bathing:
When bathing a dog it’s important to make sure that it is a pleasant experience so that you don’t struggle so much the next time you’d like to bath your pooch. Not all of them will take kindly to getting wet and shampooed but there is a difference between a pooch that wiggles a little and then ceases as compared to the dog that will try everything to escape and dash away. The following are some steps one as a dog owner can take to make sure that our pooches aren’t frighten and enjoy their bathing time.
First step is a quick combing and brushing. This serves two purposes, for one you don’t have to deal with a plugged drain when all the loose fur goes down the drain. The other purpose is that it stimulates the oil glands and minimizes the skin drying out. Next step is to make sure that water temperature is neither too hot nor too cold as this might surprise the dog and make him want to get out; ideally the water should be luke-warm. If for some reason your pooch is scared of the noise from the water faucet, simply fill a water bucket with water and use a container to pour water on your dog. This is what you would have to do if it is more convenient to bath outside instead of inside. If your dog is on a slippery surface (e.g. the bathtub), put something that will allow him/her to grip better, a plastic car mat works well for this purpose.
The actual bathing process doesn’t have any guidelines other than to be careful not to get water in the dog’s ears or shampoo in their eyes. However, if you are using a medicated shampoo to treat fleas it is recommended to start out by shampooing around the dog’s neck so that you don’t have fleas escaping to the dog’s head as you wash the body. After shampooing make sure to rinse well, residue shampoo can make the dog very itchy and in some cases may start problems such as hotspots or paw chewing. The underside and the paws are places where you may want to rinse a little extra.
Drying is also up to you. Whether you want to towel them down, blow dry them, or take them out for a walk to dry it is completely up to you, personally my pooch enjoys the latter of the three and dries well. With toweling be careful not to rub down your dog too much as the rubbing action can create tangles with the wet fur. When blow drying, make sure that the air isn’t too hot. No matter what method for drying you choose, drying thoroughly is important, especially with long coats, because areas that stay wet for a long time may become a hotspot.
After your dog has been dried, it is time for another grooming session. It is very important to groom before and after the bath because some of the natural oils of the dog are washed away and we want to replenish them by stimulating the skin’s oil glands. This will give the coat a very nice shine as well as prevent the dog from developing dry flaky skin. Another precaution you can take to minimize flaky skin is making sure that you are using a shampoo that doesn’t irritate the skin as much as regular shampoos such as oatmeal or chamomile shampoos. It is best to use these shampoos with young puppies also, as their skin may be more sensitive. Avoid using human shampoos seeing how they are not designed for dogs and can most likely lead to very irritated skin. Last thing when it comes to shampoos, if you are using a medicated shampoo make sure to read the instructions carefully and not to use more than is recommended. There have been incidents where dogs were bathed with too much medicated shampoo and then have seizures or even die. Unless specified by a vet, don't use flea collars in conjunction with medicated shampoo as this can overdose a dog.
Alternatives
If time doesn’t permit that you fully bathe your dog or he/she is a little too smelly however it would be inconvenient to bathe, here are some other things you can do to minimize the odor without the water. These are only temporary solution and don’t get rid of odors for as long as actually bathing does.
Dry shampoos work to clean out a dog’s coat without the use of water. They are most likely found at your local pet store and are handy to keep around.
Cornstarch or baby powder work wonders to get rid of the ‘doggy smell’. Apply the powder on the dog’s coat and let it sit for 20 minutes to absorb oils. After letting it sit, brush it out of the dog’s coat. This eliminates or at least minimizes doggy odors for a couple days depending on the dog and his/her activities.
Brushing as discussed before is an easy way to get rid of the doggy smell. It gets rid of the dirt and debris in the coat help keeping a dog smelling as little as possible.
Miscellaneous:
Ear Cleaning: Helping your dog have his/her ears clean is very important. Good hygene will help prevent bacteria or fungus from growing in the ear canals that grow rapidly in warm moist areas. This is one of the reasons why it is important to make sure to keep the inside of the ears dry during the bathing process. Never stick a Q-tip or drip ear cleaning solution straight into the ear canal. The best way to keep your dog's ears clean is to gently wipe the inside of the ear with a cotton ball moistened with ear cleaning solution. A Q-tip may be needed to get in between the folds but as stated before, never stick it in the ear canal as this may result in an injury that may need veterinary attention. After cleaning the inside of the ear well and making sure that there isn't any debris (e.g. weeds or dirt) use a dry cotton ball to get rid of excess moisture.
Suspect an ear infection or an obstruction if your dog is constantly shaking it's head or pawing at it. With some infections there may be a foul smell and some extra moisture. Ear mites can cause your dog uncomfort as well, these need to be treated with a medical solution that can be provided by your vet or groomer.
Teeth Brushing: At times some may think that the occasional bone and dry kibble will be enough to keep our dog's teeth healthy and while they may help remove some tartar it is necessary that we brush our dog's teeth often. Avoid using human toothpaste as chemicals in them can upset your dog's stomach not to mention that the foaming action of our toothbrush may be frustrating to the dog as they cannot spit like we can. Many commercial dog toothpastes have different flavors that may appeal to your dog, use these to your advantage. Start of little by little and get the dog accustomed to the taste. With time it may be easier to get your pooch to consent to brushing their teeth although some just never like it. As always praise your pooch if they do a good job and don't make the brushing process too dificult.
Bad breath and a clear build up in tartar are signals that our pooches may need some dental work and good brushings. If dental hygene is ignored the owner may soon find themselves having to get professional help to clean out their dog's teeth, so it's always best to take care of this responsibility before the situation gets worse.
***Myth 1: Shaving my dog will cool him/her off
While it may make sense that shaving a dog will cool him/her off, it isn't the case with all dogs. Breeds that have fur that constantly grows such as the poodle or Shih-tzu actually do benefit from the shaved coat; however dog breeds such as the Siberian husky or German shepherd don't benefit so much. The double coat of some dogs actually acts as an insulator, protecting the dog from extreme temperatures. When it is cold the coat works to keep the dog warm and when it is hot the coat actually keeps the dog cool.
Also remember that the coat protects your dog from the sun's harmful rays as well as from bugs, chemicals, dirt, etc. Skin problems and sun burns can be a big problem with some shaved dogs. This is why the dog has to be kept in areas of minimal sun exposure.
Sometimes the shaving is done not only for the convenience of the dog but also for the convinience of the owner. It is believed that the shaving will minimize shedding problems, which is true to an extent. While shorter fur may not be heavy enough to fall off, there will still be some shedding of shortened fur. This however also leads to another consideration; because the hair doesn't fall out as it would normally, it is important to brush the coat to make sure to get rid of all excess dead hair as this can actually clog up the hair follicle and lead to skin problems or poor regrowth of fur.
Probably the last consideration is that there always exists the possibility that the coat won't grow back like it was before. It is not unheard of for the coat to have a 'moth eaten' appearance. This problem is specifically due to the growth rate of the different types of hair a specific dog breed has.
All in all, this decision is up to you as an owner. These paragraphs are mainly to show that it isn't all just a matter of convenience and that other factors should come into play when shaving a dog, provided that the owner takes proper care of their shaved dog, there really shouldn't be any serious adverse effects. There are always alternative methods of cooling off such as daily grooming to get rid of excess dead hair and also simply allowing our dogs to jump into a pool of water.
***Myth 2: Regularly bathing my dog can damage his/her skin/coat
This issue isn't so much as of a myth per se; however it doesn't have to be a rule of thumb either. The key lies within proper equipment and techniques. I bath my dog Junior and Sheetza about once a week (at most) with oatmeal shampoo and conditioner and they have beautiful coats. The only times they start scratching are times when their baths are overdue. Some people may think that once a week bathing is excessive, however take a good look at a show dog's beautiful coat who may indeed be receiving weekly baths too.
One of the main reasons why this statement started circulating is because many years ago it actually was true. One didn't use specialized dog shampoo to wash their pets, they most likely used soaps that were extremely harsh on dog's (and in some cases, human's) skin. This of course led to frequent baths being followed by very itchy and flakey dogs. However, today there are many shampoos and conditioners to choose from that are specially made to suit our dog's particular needs.
It is very true that an improper bath can leave a dog's coat dry. When a dog doesn't get groomed before and after the bath, the skin's oil glands remain unstimulated and don't replenish the dog's natural oils quick enough to avoid dry and flaky skin. This is why it is important to take at least 15 minutes before a bath and 30-45 minutes after a bath to brush and comb the dog's coat; it greatly reduces shedding, stimulates oil glands, and distributes oils even across the skin and coat.
Another cause of itchy, dry and flakey skin after baths is that some owners use incorrect shampoos and conditioners. Human shampoos can be particularly irritating to a dog's skin, which leads some to think that baths in general can be harmful to dogs. Very mild shampoos such as oatmeal shampoos can greatly reduce the incidence of irritated skin. Conditioners are of great value to owners of dogs that have dry skin as it helps the coat keep in some moisture as well as making the coat softer than ever.
Probably the last contributor to this myth is that some owners may rush through the rinsing stage of the bath. This is definitely not a good idea; any residue shampoo can become very itchy. Thoroughly rinsing the dog that is being bathed is very important, yet at times it can be hard to do. Many dogs loath being bathed and do everything possible to escape, this leads to inefficiency of shampooing and, of course, an inefficiency of rinsing. Because the cases of misbehaving dogs in baths is somewhat common it is sensible to conclude that the incidences of poor rinsing are equally common, this leads to the misconception that bathing dogs regularly can damage their skin and coat.
In conclusion, with regular grooming there really shouldn't be a need to bath all too regularly. Bathing a dog every day, unless for a medical reason, is a bit excessive. Let us remember that bathing does indeed rid the coat of some natural oils, it is just that sometimes this fact is exaggerated a bit. Using common sense will go a long ways for you, simply bath when your dog starts smelling unpleasant. If your dog smells unpleasant all the time, yet there is no obvious reason for it, look into feeding your dog better quality food. Remember that a dog's diet has much to do with their coat and skin. Bathing will always be dependent on the dog's lifestyle, breed, activities, and health.
-Steven L.
-Revised and Edited by Julie and Stephanie
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References and Further Reading for Myth 1:
Fisher, Tracy."Your Dog's Coat: To Shave or Not to Shave?". <http://www.pets.com/articles/3/0/448>
Kelly, Gary Wynn. "Shaving Northern Dogs". <http://www.adrtc.org/shaving-northern-dogs/>
Peterson, Lisa. "Ask AKC". <http://www.akc.org/press_center/akc_syndicate/ask_AKC/0806.cfm>
Salzberg, Kathy. "The Great Shave Debate". <http://www.dogchannel.com/dog-information/dog-groomer-salzberg/dog-shaving-debate.aspx?cm_sp=InternalClicks-_-RelatedArticles-_-dog-information/dog-groomer-salzberg/dog-shaving-debate>.
References and Further Reading for Myth 2:
Coger, Laurie S."Skin and Coat Health".<http://blogs.timesunion.com/petsandvets/category/bathinggrooming>
Isle of Dogs."Canine Grooming Care".<http://www.iodogs.com/Canine/CanineGroomingCare.aspx>
San Francisco SPCA."Dog Grooming".<http://www.sfspca.org/resources/library/for-dog-owners/abcs/dog-gromming.pdf>
Spadafori, Gina. "A Clean Dog Makes for a Happy Dog".<http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&A=107&S=1>