Commands
The following will give advice about steps you can take to teach your dog commands that are essential to create a well behaved dog. This will also include tricks that you can teach to stimulate your dog's mind. Remember that every dog is different and will learn in a different way, with different methods, and at a different pace.
Side Notes: To teach a dog a trick we need to establish what a verbal command actually implies. There are two training techniques that fulfill this purpose: Lure training and Modeling training. These are non-operant training techniques that help teach a dog what is expected from him/her when you say a specific command. Lure training is the process of using a treat (food or toy) and slowly directing the dog to a position or action that the command is asking. To put it simply lure is done in the following steps: Give the command, lure the dog, once the action is accomplish give the reward. Modeling training is actually grabbing or pushing on a part of the dog's body to get them to go into a position or do an action that the command asks. Each dog learn differently therefore lure training will work on some and other will require modeling training. After you've establish what it is you are asking of your dog, then it is time to condition and get your pooch to obey the command on "cue", meaning without luring or touching simply using a word and maybe a hand gesture.The following commands will be labeled "lure" or "modeling" to let you know what technique is used.
Also, remember never to reward a behavior that isn't the one that you are asking for. If your dog is doing something that you are not asking for, stop what you are doing, say "No" in a firm voice, and start from the beginging.
Note about Luring: The thing about luring is that it should only be used during the first few training sessions or when a command is brand new. If the lure technique is used long after the begining of training then it becomes a bribe. A bribe will become a serious obstacle in training and reinforcement. So whats the difference? Well a lure is only used at the begining of training in order to teach the dog how to move or act in response to a cue. A bribe is a reward that is produced before the action because otherwise the dog won't listen to you. For example, if you call your dog and are waving a treat for him to come, thats a bribe (if this isn't the initial training sessions); however if you call your dog, the dog comes, and you produce a treat from your pocket (which he didn't see before) and give it to him, then thats a reward which conditions the good behavior.
Command: Sit
Method 1 (Lure): After getting your dog's attention, entice it with a treat. This works more efficiently when you use food. Start off by saying "Sit", then take the piece of food (assuming this is what you will use) and slowly bring it over the dog's head. What we want is the dog looking up. Slowly keep moving the treat back. The dog will want to keep the treat within view, however there will be a moment that the dog won't be able to arch his/her head any longer while standing up,and so it will eventually sit down to be able to keep the treat within sight. Just as the dog is sitting, say "Good!" and give the pooch the treat. Sometimes, particularly with smaller breeds, the dog won't sit down to keep the looking at the treat; they will instead turn around or jump to get it. Should this happen simply take the treat from sight, say "No" as soon as the jump or turn around and begin again from the beginning. There are some dogs that just simply won't sit down; if this is your case then you might want to try the assist method.
Method 2 (Modeling): This one is fairly easy. Like mentioned before, get the dog's attention and then order it to sit, using the specific word that you have designated for this command. Slightly push down on the dog's lower back (near the tail); the force in itself should be enough to get the dog to sit. As he accomodates to the sitting position, say "Good!" and as soon as he has his/her bottom on the floor give it the food reward. Do this a couple more times, pushing down slightly on his lower back. It should get easier and should require less force to get the dog to sit. Eventually you should be able to say "Sit" and the dog will do it without being assisted.
Command: Lay
Method 1 (Lure): Teaching the dog to sit will facilitate the process of teaching how to lay, so get the former well ingrained in your pooch. Assuming that your pooch already knows the sit command, we'll go from there. First have your dog sit down. Give the command "Lay" and slowly pass the treat in front of the dog's nose and slowly keep moving it down. The dog's natural instinct will be to follow the treat down. Keep lowering the treat down a couple inches in front of the dog's chest and then between the pooch's front paws. Once you are a couple inches off the ground move away from the dog. The combination of both the lowered treat and it moving away should entice the dog to lower itself to keep it within grasp. As your pooch is going down say "Good Boy". Once the dog's body is on the floor, give him the treat. Some dogs aren't compelled enough to go down on its own, if this is your case, try the assisted method.
Method 2 (Lure for Small breeds): This is a technique I had to come up with to teach Lay, to Curly, the puppy I'm currently training. Being a small breed, none other methods (Method 1, 3, or 4) worked to teach the lay command. First what we need to do is take a tasty treat, show it to the dog and hold it within a fist (the treat should be between your pinky and your palm). Allow some space in your fist so that you are making a funnel shape and the treat is near the closed end (pinky). The dog will smell the treat and will try to stick his/her muzzle in your fist to get the treat. While the dog is trying to do this, say "Lay" and slowly lower your fist down to the floor and point the opened side towards the floor at an angle. Even with its small stature, the position of your fist will require the pooch to lie down and try to get the treat. At the time the pooch gets down, say "Good Boy" and allow your dog to get the treat. If done correctly and numerous times, a small dog will eventually get what you are asking when you say "Lay".
Method 3 (Modeling): This method is almost identical Method 1. Start off with the dog in the sitting position. Present the treat but don't bring it close to the dog like done in the voluntary method,say "Lay" and just slowly bring it down, meanwhile apply gentle pressure between the shoulder blades (back), note that this is just a slight pressure to encourage going down, do not apply more pressure just because your dog refuses to go down, this will only hurt the dog. As mentioned before, as the dog goes down say "Good Boy" and once on the floor reward with the treat.
Method 4 (Modeling): This is the second way to teach lay while helping out a bit. First off order the pooch into the sit position, say "Lay"and then take the two front legs and slowly bring the dog down and forward until it is in the lay position. While you are helping your dog into the lay position say "Good Boy". Give a treat once he stays in the lay position. Sometimes the dog may get startles if you grab its front legs, I know my dog hates when I grab his front legs, but he learned the lay command using the Voluntary method. If your dog doesn't like being helped in this way, then I would suggest using the other methods, you don't want to make training something to be afraid or wary of.
Command: Come (Recall)
I would have to say that the recall (come) command is one of the most important to teach. Having this command well ingrained in the pooch may help keep it from running into the street and into traffic. It allows you to call back your dog if he is approaching someone that is reacting negatively to the dog’s presence, just to name two. There is also more than one correct way to teach the dog to come. With this command in specific, remember to never issue a command that you cannot enforce, this will undermine your authority and let the dog know that disobedience is an option.
Things to Remember
If by chance your pooch is running away from you, do not run after it, you risk your pooch running away thinking that you are playing chase. Sometimes you can use the game of chase to your advantage and call the dog’s name then as soon as you have the dog’s attention, running away from it. There is a high probability that the dog will go after you giving you a chance to catch him. Another thing that might hinder your recall training is if you punish the dog because it did not come right away when you called to him. It is true that the pooch should come when called and not when it feels like it but the dog won’t connect the reprimand to the fact that he didn’t come right away, but rather to the act of simply coming to you. If your dog comes to you, no matter the circumstance, you should be warm and welcoming.
At the beginning of the recall training, avoid calling your dog only to immediately do something that it does not like. For instance, do not use “Come” then give it a bath, leave the park, or trim its nails; in these circumstances, it is best to go and take the dog instead. Call to your dog to give it food, to have a play session, or to go for a walk. It is best to keep things “Come=Positive” at the beginning to heighten your chance of success. Later, when training is more advanced, you can issue the recall command for almost everything provided that you give the appropriate praise.
Method 1 (Lure): Gather a group of 4-6 people. All of you, along with your dog, go to an area with ample space and put some distance between every person (about 3-5 yards) forming a circle or a square may keep things simple and organized. Each person should have a handful of tasty treats (ham or cheese might do the trick). Start by one person calling the dog’s name, say “Come” and enticing him to come with the treat. As with the previous method, the “Come” should be followed with some gesture of invitation. None of the other people should be creating a distraction, calling the dog’s name, or anything that might interfere with the training. After the dog comes, praise him and give him the treat. Now it is another person’s turn to call the dog’s name and ask him to come, all doing the exact same as the first person. Avoid going in turns, so that the pooch does not go to the person out of habit, make it random and unexpected. If for some reason the dog doesn’t come to the person calling, it might be more appropriate to teach “come” using method 3 where you can reinforce your command.
Method 2 (Lure): This method makes use of the “Chase game” and a dog’s affinity for toys. Take your dog’s favorite toy with you to a spacious enclosed area (preferably your yard); if your dog does not like toys, a food treat might work. Allow your pooch to explore a little and build some distance from you (not too much). Next, call his name, wave the toy and run away from your dog. This action should trigger a chasing response provided that your tone is warm and welcoming. Give the “Come” command at the moment your dog begins to turn to run after you. The reason why it is best to avoid giving the command before that, is that we are unsure if the pooch will or will not come; if he doesn’t not come, it puts you in a situation where you have issued a command that you cannot back up. Slow down to a stop and reward your dog for coming, repeat in a few minutes until the command becomes better ingrained.
Method 3 (Lure/Modeling): Start by first acquiring a long lead that gives your dog ample space to roam. Go to your yard or another place where the dog will be allowed to explore a bit. After some time call his name to get his attention, with an enticing treat in your hand say, “Come”, and make welcoming gestures (such as opening your arms, slightly waving towards you, or anything that might be physically interpreted as an invitation). If the dog comes, praise it warmly and give it the treat or toy and repeat these steps over and over again to teach the dog the association between the word, the action, and the praise. On occasions your dog may think that exploring is much more interesting than what you are offering, if such is the case, give the line is slight tug and encourage the dog to come. The lead will help you to be able to enforce a command so that the dog does not think that when you say “Come” he can either go to you or not.
Command: Drop
This command is useful to have because on occasions our dogs pick up objects that could either be a choking hazard or poisonous. However to teach this command one needs good observational skills and timing. The time the command is given and the time the item is dropped is what makes a difference about how fast your pooch makes the connection between the command and the action.
Method 1 (Lure): The first thing that needs to be done is allow your dog to get something in his/her mouth. The next step is to get an item that will be more enticing than whatever your pooch has currently; a piece of ham usually works great. Get your dog's attention with what you have in your hand, and encourage him to trade it for the item he has in his mouth. Have your hand a couple inches under your dog's muzzle so that you can catch the item he/she has when they drop it. Say "Drop" and as soon as your pooch drops the toy say "Good Boy", take the toy away, and give your dog the treat you were trading the item for.
Method 2 (Modeling): This second method doesn't work with all kinds of dogs, especially overly excited ones; however, it is worth a try if the first method isn't working. This still involves enticing your pooch with something tastier than what he already has. This time say "Drop" and take hold of whatever item your dog has in his/her mouth and gently pull while you are encouraging him to take the treat in your other hand. When your dog lets go, say "Good Boy". Be careful that this doesn't turn into a game of tug-o-war; many dogs will simply keep hold of whatever they have in their mouths because you are trying to take away by force. If this is your case then do not continue using this method as it is teaching your dog that not letting go can result in a fun game of t.o.w.
Command: Paw
This is a command that isn't necessarily needed for a well behaved dog; however for some dogs it poses a specific challenge to teach "paw" or as some would call it "shake". As an owner, anyone can try and teach this command simply to show a neat trick to guests, provide mental stimulation, or in some cases to get your dog's paw if something seems to be bothering him/her.
Method 1 (Lure): This method will require some patience seeing how you will not be grabbing any part of the body, simply waiting for a response. Many dogs’ instinct when investigating something that they cannot immediately get is to paw at it or nose it. For the exercise to work, first acquire a very tasty treat and hold it in the palm of your hand closed in a fist. Your pooch won't be able to get it, but will most certainly be able to smell it. Encourage your dog to get the treat but do not open your fist, eventually your dog will become really eager to get the treat that he may paw at your hand. When the dog gives you his paw say "Good Boy" and allow him to take the treat.The next time, say "Shake" and extend your hand, when he gives his paw praise verbally again and allow him to take the treat. After several time of doing these steps the pawing should come faster and faster thus increasing the connection between the action and the command.
Method 2 (Modeling): This is best done with the pooch in the sitting position, this way when you take your dog's paw it doesn't freak him out. Once seated, say "Shake" and take your pooch's paw in your hand. If your dog doesn't react negatively (e.g. pulling back), reward with a tasty treat. Keep doing this time and time again until an association is made with the action and command. Every now and then try and see if your dog will willingly give you his paw by simply saying "Shake" and holding out your hand. Besides using the cue word always extend your hand out, this way the pooch knows that an extended hand as well as the word 'shake' mean that he should give his paw.
Command: Spin
This is a neat trick that may take some time to perfect. I have no yet heard of a modeling technique to teach the spin trick however there are two similar Luring techniques to teach it. Try them out and see which is more effective. Keep the actual spinning to a few spins only so that the dog doesn't get bored, dizzy, or simply sit down.
Method 1 (Lure): Take a tasty treat and hold it near your dog, at about his height level. Slowly take the treat and move it in a circular motion around your dog. If you notice that your dog is not actually spinning but rather simply walking in a circular motion, then make the circle a bit tighter. What we want is the dog's hind legs to move very little and allow the front legs to do most of the work for the walking. Say "Spin and If your dog is spinning in what you consider an appropriate manner, say "Good Boy", then give him a the food reward. Keep doing this until your dog can obey the command on cue, a good hand gesture to use to go along with the verbal command is a quick circular motion.
Method 2 (Lure): This second technique is quite similar to the method 1; it is just that the placement of the treat is a bit different. Get your dog's attention with a treat and hold it near the hip of your dog. Encourage him to get the treat however always keep it slightly away; this should result in a spinning motion not unlike a dog trying to chase its tail. Say "Spin" and as your dog starts spinning say "Good Boy", then stop and reward. This works effectively for dogs that cannot reach their hips to be able to get the treat. On a personal note, Junior, my dog, is able to reach all the way back and get the treat without having to spin thus making this technique not useful for teaching spin. If this is also your case, continue trying with the first method.
Command: Crawl
Method 1 (Lure): Depending on the size of your dog, you may be able to teach the crawl command using a low set chair or even yourself as an obstacle. For large/medium sized breeds, you may benefit most by using a chair. By using a chair that is set lower than the standing height of your dog and then luring him to come to you from the other side, you may just be able to encourage your pooch to crawl underneath the chair and later linking the action to a cue. Say "Crawl" and if your dog does indeed crawl underneath the chair make sure to give him lots of praise just as the pooch is coming under the chair. Encourage your dog to do this over and over again. To prolong the crawl even after your dog is out from under the chair, continue to hold the treat low and always keep it a couple inches away from their muzzle. For the smaller breeds that usually stand at a lower height than most chairs try using your own body as the obstacle. Sitting down and slightly rising your knees will create a “tunnel” which you can use encourage your little pooch to crawl to the other side to reach a tasty treat. This technique and the one described for larger breeds is done in the exact same manner the only difference is that you aren’t using a chair to get your dog to crawl. There are some dogs that may not respond to this method very positively because of fear or because they find it easier to walk around to get the treat. If after various attempts this method doesn’t work try the following one.
Method 2 (Lure): To begin have your pooch lay down. Have a treat in your hand and show it to your dog at a lowered level, say "Crawl" and slowly move it away from him. The natural instinct is to follow the treat and if it is moving slowly enough the pooch will crawl instead of stand up, however if your dog gets up say “No” and start over, but this time move the treat away even slower. You may, if need be, lightly touch your dog’s back to avoid any temptation to get up. Once your pooch starts crawling give a "Good Boy” and reward with the treat. Start with small crawls and gradually build up the distance always using the cue that you’ve designated.
Command: Jump
Method 1 (Lure): First off start by placing an object between you and your pooch making sure that it’s not so low that your dog can walk over it nor too high that he/she can’t comfortably jump over it. Next with a treat entice your pooch to come to you even though this object is in the way. Your want to encourage your dog to jump over by giving a hand gesture and by saying "Jump!" in an excited voice. If your pooch jumps over the obstacle, praise profusely, go to the opposite side and do this over again and make the use of the hand and verbal cue that to your dog means “Jump”. With this exercise it would be best to provide a soft landing for the dog so that the landing doesn’t hurt his legs. A lawn usually works great. If your dog doesn’t take well to this exercise and insists on walking around the obstacle, try the following method.
Method 2 (Lure): Once again, as with the previous method, be certain that the pooch has a soft landing to avoid any injury. Start by taking a treat and putting it a couple inches above your dog’s head while he is sitting. Encourage him to get the treat by saying “Jump” and by moving the treat. After some time your dog will jump and get the treat seeing how it is not coming down to him. Praise your pooch when he/she reaches for the treat. You may either allow your pooch to have the treat while he is jumping or after the jump is completed (the latter of the two is advisable but requires you to move your hand higher just after the dog has jumped). After successfully performing the jump a couple times, increase the distance between your hand and the sitting pooch. Don’t go beyond the point where your dog may get hurt for jumping too high, use discretion when judging what is your dog’s maximum jump height.
-Steven L.
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